
Christianty is the dominant religion but an estimated 30% of the indigenous population practice the animist Marapu religion, the customs and rituals of which are of considerable interest to the travelers who do make the effort to visit this rugged and remote island. Many Christians on the island combine their faith with Marapu practices.
The Marapu religion believes in temporary life on earth and an eternal life in the world of spirits in Marapu heaven (Prai Marapu)). Marapu teaches that universal life must be balanced and only then can happiness be achieved gained. This balance is symbolised by the Great Mother (Ina Kalada) and the Great Father (Ama Kalad) who live in the universe and take the forms of the moon and the sun. They are husband and wife who gave birth to the first ancestors of the Sumbanese.
To honor Marapu, the Sumbanese put effigies on stone altars where they lay their offerings and sacrifice cattle. A further manifestation of devotion to the ancestors is reflected in the construction of impressive stone burial monuments, vestiges of one of the last surviving megalithic cultures on the planet. Funeral ceremonies and burials can be delayed for decades during which the bodies of the deceased are kept in the homes of the living
While the influence of evangelical churches is growing in Sumba and reflected in mass conversion ceremonies, many islanders retain their beliefs practiced in secret. These conversions can be traumatic for elderly Sumbans who believe by doing so they sever the relationship with their forbearers. Others, particularly young people, convert for more pragmatic reasons. Indonesia formally recognizes five state religions and sought-after positions in the civil service, police and military are closed to Merapu practitioners.
Sumba always seems to have been a sparsely populated island and pre-colonial era records are few and far between. The first European ship arrived in 1522 and the Dutch East India Company slowly took control of the island. It was never a major colonial consideration though and it was not until well into the 20th century that the island was truly part of the Dutch Indonesian administration.
To Tambolaka Airport (Waitabula), Garuda Indonesia and Lion Air (operated by Wings Air) have daily flights to/from Denpasar and Kupang. TransNusa has flights to/from Denpasar every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.
Regional carrier Merpati Nusantara Airlines [url=http://www.merpati.co.id/]]operates direct flights to [[Waingapu[/url]] from many several cities in eastern Indonesia, with less frequent flights also offered by Batavia Air and Pelita Air Services. As everywhere in Indonesia, flights often change and it is important to reconfirm locally.
The Pelni [url=http://www.pelni.com/]]passenger ship Awu calls in at [[Waingapu[/url]] twice on its 14 day round trip of Nusa Tenggara. This allows access from [wiki=bbe5159a513682f0c5d1039abc9bf24f]Kupang[/wiki] and several other cities in the region. The Awu is by far the safest and best way to reach Sumba by sea.
A fast boat connects Waikelo in Sumba with [wiki=2ebc4244ed78c6aa9469a6463341679c]Sape[/wiki] in [wiki=6e115e5d52d21ddec51e3f20bebb4bca]Sumbawa[/wiki] and [wiki=a03df49f02c8ddf442cef1e3a12361eb]Labuan Bajo[/wiki] on [wiki=2661b408da2bfe8e0e62a16cf42967c3]Flores[/wiki]. As of May 2014 it runs twice a week and the price starts at 170000 rp. Call Kapal Cepat Express Bahari 0823 592 87 257 in Sape, 0822 373 68 767 in LB, 0812 3743 6447 in Waikelo. It is possible to fly to [wiki=58cf673f3bf0903e1954d43e25223aaf]Bima[/wiki] (much cheaper than flying to LB or Sumba). Then Sape is a 2 hour bus ride away.
Independent travel to and within Sumba has its challenges, and many visitors do so by joining an organised tour starting in [wiki=53b98f90a1c4b17176913e24570306bb]Bali[/wiki] or [wiki=e9c005061431ef540838658e74a74c49]Lombok[/wiki]. Once a rarity, these are now increasing and the quality of experience improving.